Sunday, March 1, 2009

Escape from New York

For the second year in a row (and what I hope is becoming an annual tradition), Maureen and I escaped the cold weather of NYC for a warmer climate.  This year's destination was Playa del Carmen, Mexico.  Our trip down went pretty smoothly, although we did have a bit of a delay waiting for our ground transportation to the hotel at the airport.  We did meet a nice gentleman/body snatcher (in the time share sense so don't worry dad) named Carlos at the airport in our efforts to find where our ground transportation would be waiting for us.  We chatted with him while he tried to convince us to go to a time share schpiel in exchange for discounted tours of Tulum and other attractions.  When we told him we weren't interested in a tour because we were planning to bike to Tulum (even after he informed us it was 45km away), he caught on to the type of travelers we really were and ended up really coming through for us with a couple of fantastic suggestions.  In the end, we did sit through the time share presentation (the next day) in return for two days of car rental.  The whole sales pitch took longer than we hoped, but in the end the car and the places it took us were worth it.

The morning of our first full day, Maureen and I were good little triathletes and went for a run around the Playacar complex.  We were hoping for a beach run, but it was high tide and they put those darn lounge chairs right up to the high tide line.  We weren't really looking for an obstacle course, so we hit the sidewalk.  After our run and leisurely breakfast, we paid our dues at the time share place before hitting the beach.  We relaxed the afternoon and evening away, finally feeling the cold and stress of the city leaving us.  We had dinner at one of the restuarants at the the other Wyndham resort down the road from our hotel.  We definitely made the right choice in our hotel selection.  Their other place was empty and not nearly as nice as our hotel.  They were the same price when we were booking, but I'm guessing in better economic times ours was the more expensive of the two.

Our original plan for our second day was to use one of our car rentals to head to Tulum (since we had the car, we had decided that perhaps driving was the better option than cycling).  We weren't able to get a hold of the rental car place (it seems the office we had a number for was closed on Sundays), so ended up lounging on the beach all day.  It was fantastic.  That day ended up being the only day during our entire trip that was sunny all day long, so the snafu with the rental car totally worked out in our favor.  That night we celebrated Maureen's birthday at one of the restaurants at our hotel.

Feliz cumpleanos a Maureen!

We were finally able to secure our rental car on Monday for two days.  At first they told us all they had was manual transmission.  I was the only one with my license with me, which meant I was the only one who could drive it.  When asked if I could drive a manual transmission, I said not really (my experience with a stick shift is one day in a parking lot - I don't think I ever made it out of first gear).  We weren't about to pass up the rental car, so we were going to take whatever we could get.  I figured I could practice on some back roads before we actually headed south to our destination.  I knew I had the general idea of how it all worked.  Plus, I'd be able to drive stick by the time I got back to the States, which would not be a bad thing.  After the car rental place was done playing games, they did produce an automatic transmission for us.  I was definitely relieved (but I do still want to learn how to drive stick).  Our original plan for the day had been to go to a water park in Xel Ha, but since the whole rental car process had taken longer than anticipated, we opted to make Monday our ruins day.  We were planning to go first to Tulum and then on to Coba (a suggestion from our friend Carlos).  We ended up missing the turn into Tulum and decided to go to Coba first.  What a stroke of luck!  Coba was awesome!  We ended up spending several hours there, so many that we didn't even have time to go to Tulum on our way back to the hotel because it was starting to get dark.  Coba was so great that I doubt we would have gone to Tulum even if we had had time.  It was an entire settlement of ruins, all in the woods.  We totally felt like Indiana Jones searching for archaeological treasures in the jungle.


Ruins at Coba

Reminds you of Indiana Jones, yes?

Primitive (and more gruesome) basketball - could you throw a skull through this loop?


Trees that found a home on top of the ruins

Me in a really cool tree

This is where we overheard a tour guide explaing that the Mayans came from space.  I think something may have been lost in translation.  The tourists were so impressed with this information that they asked for their guide's card so that their friend could find him when he was in Mexico in a couple of weeks.  Wow...



View from the bottom

View from the top

View looking down - yes, it really was that steep

On our drive back to the hotel, we stopped for tacos and did a little shopping in a village along the way.  The tacos were okay, but my mounth was on fire by the time I finished them :-)  It also rained on us, but of all times for it to rain, while we were in the car was a good one.  Plus, we got to see a rainbow!


We saw a lot of wildlife during our time in Mexico, which was unexpected since we weren't really looking for it.

Spiny-tailed iguana living at our hotel

Central American agouti living at our hotel - not to be mistaken with an NYC subway rat.  When asked by another guest what it was, one of the hotel workers replied "buenas carnes!" - good meats!

White-nosed coatimundi living at Coba

A bird living at Coba that I can not figure out what it is.  I've officially given up because I have wasted way too much time trying to figure it out.


On our last full day in Mexico, we took the car out again.  At this point, we had decided that Xel Ha was not for us.  Since Carlos had not steered us wrong about Coba, we decided to follow his second suggestion and head to the Dos Ojos cenotes.  Again - awesome!  Since I left my camera in the car I don't have any photos, so I hope my explanation can do them at least a bit of justice.  Cenotes are caves filled with water - not completely - just enough that you can swim in them and go snorkeling.  SCUBA diving is also an option, but we opted for the snorkeling route.  We also splurged for the guided tour, which gave us access to a lot more of the cenotes than if we had just chosen to do things on our own.  Dos Ojos is two cenotes connected by caves, one of which has bats living in it.  By taking the tour, we were able to go through all of the connecting caves and see the bats.  It was really cool.  We even went into one cave where we turned off our flashlights - it was pitch black - very neat.  After our tour, Maureen and I swam around one of the cenotes for a bit longer before heading back to the hotel.  Maureen also scored the location of a good taco place in Playa (Serrape should you ever find yourself there - it's a local place and tourists don't really know about it) from our tour guide, so we stopped their before returning the rental car.  These tacos were excellent, and again my mouth was on fire - yay!


On our last night, we opted to eat dinner in the hotel cafeteria instead of at one of the restaurants.  We had decided that the food was actually better there (or so we thought).  The next morning we were up at 5:30AM to finish packing and catch our ride to the airport - the start of what turned into a very long day.  We arrived at the airport around 7:30 to find out that our 10AM flight had been delayed until 2PM - yuck!  We asked if there was another flight we could get on that would get us home earlier but were immediately told that was the earliest.  We should have pushed more because it turns out their was a flight into Newark that would have worked.  At least they provided us with a voucher for lunch.  At 1PM we learned that our flight had been officially cancelled.  Since the flight to Newark was gone by this time, we ended up having to connect through Miami (5 hour layover included - yippee!).  To make the best of a not great situation, we decided that the only thing to do was to camp out at the airport bar and drink away our layover.  It was fun for a while, but about half way through our second round Maureen started getting sick.  Not a good sign of things to come.  Being the epidemiologists that we are, we quickly diagnosed ourselves (norovirus) and pinpointed the meal that was the likely culprit based on the incubation period (dinner the previous night).  The only question was which food item, a quesiton that would be answered by when (there's no if when it comes to norovirus since it is so contagious) I would also become sick - that night or the next day.  

After a couple of delays, we finally were in the air and on our way back to NYC.  What was originally supposed to be a direct flight getting us home at 3PM on Wednesday, had turned into a connection that would not get us home until nearly 2AM Thursday morning.  As we were boarding, I was starting to feel a bit nauseus, but I was hoping that it was psychosomatic.  I really wanted to be home before I got sick.  I was able to sleep for most of the flight, which helped delay the inevitable.  About an hour before landing, it hit me - so close!  Maureen and I concluded that the likely culprit was the paealla from the previous night's dinner.  I wonder how many others at the hotel succumbed to a similar fate.  We were at least happy that our illnesses struck after our vacation was over.  We did attract attention from the airline passenger sitting across the aisle from us - perhaps the hers and hers barf bags we collected for the cab ride home were the give-away.  I do hope we didn't infect anyone on the plane, but that may be wishful thinking...

At the end of the day, we had a fantastic time and came back to NYC refreshed.  We had relatively good luck with everything during our trip, and our bad luck managed to hold off until our way back.  If bad luck is going to strike, that would be my preferred time.  Now I am going to start looking forward to my back packing trip in South America - it's only two months away!

Friday, November 21, 2008

Exceeding Expectations

This was such an amazing trip, filled with amazing experiences and amazing people.  I was not ready to return home to New York City, perhaps the true measurement of the success of a vacation.  Everything exceeded my expectations, and I will have fantastic memories for years to come.  I met so many wonderful people along the way and made some fantastic new friends.  Given my previous travels, I was expecting to be older than many of the people I met along the way, but it turns out I was one of the youngest.  The number of people I met in their 40s, 50s, 60s, and even 70s far exceeded the number of 20-somethings I encountered.  The oldest person I met along the way, my Canadian friend John, was 71, and the oldest woman I met, Nellike, was 70.  They were so inspiring and give me hope for the adventures I will be able to take in the decades to come.  

While this chapter in my life has come to an end, the book has not closed.  I am already trying to decide where I want to go next, so stayed tuned because there are a lot of places I want to see.

Thursday, November 20, 2008

India - Delhi and Agra in 36 hours

On my previous trip to India, I stayed at a guest house called the Sunny Guest House.  For my $10/night, I got a private bathroom and a filthy dirty room.  I can't say I was looking forward to our two nights in Delhi prior to our arrival.  In an effort to avoid a similar hotel situation on this trip, Heather and I decided to book a room on hotels.com.  Since we were only staying a couple of nights, we were also willing to spend a bit more money with the hopes of having a clean room.  It paid off.  we stayed at the Hotel Ajanta and I was pleasantly surprised when we walked through the door to a clean room.  The $20/night difference in room price between this place and the Sunny Gueast house made a huge difference.  The hotel also had a travel agency in it, so we were able to arrange for a private car tour of Agra right there.  Our efforts to arrange something online prior to leaving Kathmandu didn't work out so well.

We arrived in Delhi around 5:00PM, and after getting situated at our hotel we walked to down to Connaught Place to explore a bit, but what we found was not the Connaught Place I remember from 3.5 years ago.  The Connaught Place I remember was lined with small handicraft shops, but what we encountered was lined with trendy restaurants and chain stores like Nike and Benetton.  I may not have been in exactly the part of Connaught Place as I spent time in 3.5 years ago, but still, a lot has changed.

We had dinner in a restaurant near our hotel.  It was fantastic!  I had the best mango lassi I've ever had and the rest our meal was the best ever as well.  When we enetered, we were the only non-Indians in the place, so we knew we were in for a treat.

Our one full day in India started early and didn't really end, at least in the sense that there was no crawling back into our beds to go to sleep at our hotel.  Heather and I left for Agra at 6:30AM.  It took us about 4 hours to get to Sikandra, where we met up with our tour guide Ali.  He was a really nice guy, funny too, so we had a really good time seeing the sights.





There are a lot of beautiful patterns found in Indian architecture, and I took a lot of pictures fo them.



Blackbuck on the lawns at Sikandra.

The tomb of Akbar is inside of this structure.






After Sikandra, we headed to the Taj Mahal.  I had forgotten how impressive it really is.




Traditional pose for tourist photos.





Precious stones were carved and inlaid into the marble of the Taj Mahal.








After seeing the Taj Mahal, we stopped for lunch.  It was at a touristy place and wasn't nearly as good as our dinner the night before (but still good).  We also did a little shopping, which included a stop at a place that makes marble items inlaid with precious stones in the same manner in which the work on the Taj Mahal was done.  It was really interesting to see how intricate of a process it is.

The last place we went in Agra was the Agra Fort.  I find this to be a very architecturally interesting place.

Map of the grounds and buildings at the Agra Fort.  It is still used by the Indian military so much of the grouds are closed to tourists.








View of th Taj Mahal from the Agra Fort.






More precious stones inlaid into marble at the Agra Fort.



The drive back to Delhi took longer than the drive to Agra, so we didn't get back in time to have dinner at our little restaurant.  We barely made it back in time to make the midnight closing time of the restaurant in our hotel.  After we finished eating, we had just enough time to shower and finish packing before our taxi to the airport arrived.  Luckily, we had been able to sleep some on our drive back from Agra because there would be no sleeping that night.  We took a lot of time rearranging our bags from how they were packed for our trip from Kathmandu to Delhi.  Both of our bags were overweight leaving Kathmandu, but due to a couple of miscommunications we managed to escape paying the overweight luggage fee.  We moved our heavy items from our checked baggage into our carry-on luggage.  Naturally, when I checked in, my suitcase was fine, but they weighed my carry on bag and said it was too heavy.  I ended up having to move stuff back into my suitcase.  Heather and I had been a bit suspicious that the scales at the Kathmandu airport where not calibrated properly and this incident just confirmed that they were way off (likely a scam to rid tourists of their money - I'm glad we got away without paying).  Heather had bigger issues.  She had planned to have two carry-on items, but they would only let her have one. She was able to repack and get down to only one.  I imagine both her checked and carry-on bag ended up overweight, but the woman at the counter was kind enough to ignore that detail.  By 5:00AM we were on our way to Moscow and then back to New York.