Nyapul Elevation: 2,690 ft
Daily Distance Walked: 8.0 miles
Total Distanced Walked: 131.0 miles
Starting Time: 5:30AM
Ending Time: 3:00PM
The guest house we stayed at in Ghorepani was very nice, and our room had windows overlooking Annapurna I and Annapurna South. After we turned out the lights last night to go to sleep, Laurence noticed that the moon was reflecting off of the snow capped Annapurnas. It was one of the most beautiful sights of the entire trek.
Laurence and I woke up at 5:00AM this morning to go up to the top of Poon Hill (10,450 ft) for the sunrise. We spent about an hour there enjoying the view and some of our last moments together. We could see Dhaulagiri, Annapurna I, and Annapurna South among several other peaks. It was well worth the early start and 35 minute climb. This was the first time we had done any real trekking without our packs, and we felt light and fit as we sped up the hill. We came down even faster since our balance was better without our loads.
Views from Poon Hill.
The two larger peaks are Annapurna I (8,091 m - 10th highest mountain in teh world) and Annapurna South (7,219 m). Annapurna South looks taller because it is closer.
Laurence and I in front of the Annapurnas.
Dhaulagiri
After our descent from Poon Hill, we packed up our backpacks and ate our last breakfast together - porridge with honey and ginger tea. As our bowls emptied, the sadness of our impending departure from each other began to set in. Our paths would diverge in the main village of Ghorepani, about a 10 minute walk from our lodge.
Once we reached Ghorepani, we said a tearful farewell and headed in different directions - Laurence towards Gandruk and the Sanctuary trek, and me towards Nyapul, the end point of the Annapurna Circuit trek where I would eventually catch a bus to Pokhara. I had such a wonderful time trekking with Laurence, and I wish I would have had the time to go with her to the Sanctuary trek.
As I headed toward Nyapul, for the first time I was alone. I think that if I had done the trek solo, meeting people along the way of course, but on my own none the less, I don't know that I would have really felt alone ever. There are so many people on the circuit that you aren't really alone, but after spending 17 days travelling with someone, the trek does feel a bit lonely when they are suddenly gone.
I moved quickly after leaving Ghorepani and reached Tikhedhuhga around 11:30AM, where I stopped for lunch. I think more to extend the trek than because I was hungry.
A stream near Ulleri, a village about an hour from Ghorepani.
Machhapuchhre, also called Fishtail, as seen from Ulleri.
A woman working in Ulleri.
A waterfall complete with rainbow right before entering Tikhedhuhga.
Red chilis drying in the sun.
Harvesting hay.
As I neared Birethanti, the village about 20 minutes before Nyapul, my pace slowed. I knew my experiences over the last 2.5 weeks were about to come a close. I savored the sounds of the river, the green of my surroundings, the feel of the rocks beneath my feet, and the clusters of butterflies I was walking through. Just before entering Birethanti, I bought an orange from a man and his son. I walked slowly through the village and bought an apple strudle purely for the taste of one last memory of the sweets that were so rare along the trek. Just around the corner from the bakery was my final ACAP check point. I couldn't help but become teary-eyed as the memories of the last 17 days came rushing back, and the realization that this would be the first and only ACAP or police check point register where Laurence's name would not be next to mine. At 2:40PM, I signed the register, returned my pack to my back, and paused before strating across the river. I knew that crossing the bridge would be symbolic of the end of my journey. With crossing, I left the world of the well-kept, brightly painted lodges and beautiful gardens I had encountered all along the trek and found myself on the road to Nyapul. It was lined with shops selling imitation handcrafts (probably made in China) and strewn with garbage. The bright colors and flowers had disappeared. My trek was truly over. By 3:15PM I found myself on a bus to Pokhara.
2 comments:
I am sad that your trek is over too. I have enjoyed reading it all. I really am inspired to do this trek as well one day. Perhaps I will find someone as cool as Laurence to trek with along the way.
Congratulations on a fabulous trip. Looking forward for the wind up day blogs.
i felt the same way on my way down from ghorepani to Naya pul yesterday. I am surprised you failed to mention how you went down over 3200 stone steps from Ulleri to Tikhedunga (and these are steep/unleveled stone steps!) My trekking poles definitely helped my knees! I felt a similar emotion when I went back down to Chommrong from ABC -- I truly would miss the winter scenery, rustic yet very charming lodges, ladybugs flying amidst the grass, water melting/rushing down from the avalanche-prone area of Deurali, etc. Thank you very much for inspiring me to do the Annapurna Base Camp trek through your blog!!!
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